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City Planning You Can (South)bank On

Southbank Centre, London

So, I’m just about done with a three-week stay in London, and I’ve barely ventured north of the Thames.  Full disclosure: I’m here to perform at the Southbank Centre and am staying in a hotel near Waterloo.  But still, it appears that London’s South Bank is the place to be these days.  The Southbank Centre itself boasts the Queen Elizabeth and Royal Festival Halls, the Hayward Gallery, and at least ten mostly affordable restaurants.  On any given evening there are hundreds of people gathered at the terrace bar outside Festival Hall, in a sort of unofficial happy hour for the masses.  Many seem not to be there in connection to any cultural event, but merely to meet friends and enjoy the view.  If you face the river and turn left, you’ll hit the tourist favorite London Eye; turning right will take you to the British Film Institute and the National Theatre, all without crossing a single street.  Just a bit further is the Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe, but you never have to leave the river to get there, and you’ll also encounter many more places to eat, drink, and shop along the way.

The London Eye, on the river Thames

This American lad can’t stop wondering why we don’t have a place like this in New York City.  Lincoln Center, even with its many recent improvements, still feels somewhat isolated.  And when was the last time you saw hundreds of people gathered outside by the fountain, drinks in hand?  Oh right, that privilege is restricted to ticket holders – never mind…  Furthermore, who can really afford to eat at Lincoln Center area restaurants?  Certainly not the throngs of young people I’ve been seeing outside Festival Hall.

OK, time out:  I know what you’re thinking.  There is all sorts of government funding here that we don’t have back in the States.  I will not even try to argue this point, because it is absolutely and sadly true.  But we seem to have it backwards in New York – we try to lure people to extremely expensive cultural events and then hope that they’ll patronize the similarly expensive restaurants and shops in the vicinity.  Why not bring the cultural attractions to places people already want to (and can afford to) be?

Time out #2: The second batch of naysayers will undoubtedly argue that NYC just wasn’t built this way – there is simply no room to spread out, and the city doesn’t have a central riverfront like Paris or London.  Well I think Brooklyn and Queens residents would beg to differ…and everyone knows they’re the ones with the best views of the city!

I do think we’re making slow progress.  DUMBO and Fort Greene are already great cultural destinations, as is Long Island City.  And the ongoing restoration of Governor’s Island looks very promising, not to mention the increasing popularity of our water taxi system.  Maybe there’s someone out there willing to take a giant risk and dream up a new cultural mecca for NYC.  My guess is they’d be substantially rewarded, both in profits and by history.  Are you listening, Mayor Bloomberg???

Posted in General, Good Eats, Places.

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Time in the country

Well, it has been five years since moving to the United States for me (I am from Seoul, Korea) and I have been traveling a lot – not only for performances and auditions but also for fun with friends. However, it has always been to big cities like New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and Washington, D.C. Since I had never had a chance to visit the countryside in the States, I was wondering how different it might in comparison with the rural part of my country. Guess what? This summer has remedied my curiosity.

I am working with the Castleton Festival which is in the northern part of Virginia (not far from Vienna, Virginia where I started my summer season) and the beautiful landscape of the countryside makes me want to carry my camera around all the time. I can’t help but take a picture every time I see something beautiful and unlike anything I’ve seen before. Even when I am driving, I stop the car to pull over and take a picture. While it is impossible to do that on the busy highway, it is easy on the peaceful back-roads around Castleton.

When I arrived in Castleton, I heard people talking about a zonkey. I have never seen one before and I didn’t even know what a zonkey was. As soon as I did see him, I smiled – he is funny and certainly unique. I have never seen such striped legs in my life. And now I’ve seen a cross between a zebra and a donkey!

Well, I’ve learned there really isn’t that big a difference between the countryside of the States and Korea. But, never disappointed because I am always glad to find areas where nature has been less disturbed than in big cities. I am a lucky person to have these new experiences around every corner and I am glad to have my camera with me to help save these beautiful pictures and memories!

Posted in Exhibits, Great Outdoors, Places.

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Happy 4th of July!

Hallo from Vienna, Austria!

I just spent the afternoon celebrating the 4th of July with many other Americans, at a Democrats Abroad party along the Danube river. We spent the afternoon sharing travel stories, drinking Austrian wine, and making s’mores. From there, a small group of us went to the “Badeschiff“, which is swimming pool aboard a ship in the Danube river, with live music, fantastic cocktails, and lots of Austrians (in various states of undress) crammed into a small but lively swimming pool.

After watching the sunset, we made our way over to the Rathaus, where a Lang Lang solo piano concert was being broadcast on a huge screen in between two of the most amazingly beautiful buildings, the “Rathaus” and the “Burgtheater.” Being an audience member is always a welcome change, and I plan on doing lots of that in Vienna this summer, since there are so many wonderful opera companies, theaters, and dance companies in this culturally rich city. It doesn’t get much better than Vienna in the summer, although I will admit to missing air conditioning on hot days like today. Happy Independence Day!

Posted in General, Great Outdoors, Places.

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Foodstuffs of Legend

I’m grateful that the network of opera professionals is a tight one, because it’s pretty rare that any of us go to a city where we haven’t already gotten the low-down about the best restaurants, bars and hangouts. These favorite haunts are often the stuff of legends at various summer festivals and opera houses. There are those who’ve been known to sample the menu of Bobcat Bite while at Santa Fe Opera, toss back a pint at Cross Keys at Aldeburgh Festival, or savor a pitcher of Pabst Blue Ribbon post-liederabend at Five Chairs while with the Tanglewood Music Festival.

This summer, I’m working with Wolf Trap Opera Company in the rolling hills of Northern Virginia, just outside of our nation’s capital. After a long morning of studying scores and Shakespeare, I decided to put culture on hold for an hour or so to experience the illustrious Vienna Inn. The food is simultaneously unremarkable and astounding, and I am both amused and intrigued by the place in history that this establishment holds in the lives of many colleagues and predecessors. I would be willing to bet the Vienna Inn is oblivious to the countless number of world-class musicians that have sat in these rickety booths to enjoy chili dogs and beers over the years. And, from the vibe in the place, I doubt they care.

But still, a coupla chili cheese dogs represented a rite of passage for me at lunch today, and it will add to the list of great destinations and warm memories that I feel fortunate to have collected thus far.

Oh, and trust me… the dogs tasted MUCH better than they look.

Posted in Good Eats, Places, Travel Tips.

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Garden State love…

Nothing’s as grounding on a month long rehearsal-performance period as a good run. Since it’s so gorgeous right now here in Princeton, I’ve been running a lot. With more mileage than my knees are used to, I wanted to run on dirt rather than pavement as much as possible, so I went trail sleuthing on the internet and hit the jackpot. In addition to the famous canal towpath, there’s the Institute for Advanced Studies trails frequented by Einstein (coming from Los Alamos, I love that young post-doc scientist housing looks the same all over the country) and the Mountain Lakes trails north of town. To keep track, I’ve been using Mapmyrun, a fab web application that lets me measure and plan a run so I know roughly how far I can go before I should hoof it back in time to get ready for rehearsal.

And then after rehearsal, there’s… The Bent Spoon. Tucked into all the shopping on Palmer Square, The Bent Spoon has some of the most delish ice cream on the planet and they often use seasonal fruit from nearby Terhune Orchards. The classics are amazing, but it’s the weird stuff that really gets me: Dark Chocolate Earl Grey. Lavender Mascarpone. Ginger Chunk, Honeydew Sorbet. I brought a very discerning 80-something year-old fellow ice cream snob and she said over her scoop of Dark Chocolate Orange “I will be coming back here.”

Posted in Good Eats, Great Outdoors, Hobbies.

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Time for a Cuppa Joe

Saturday rehearsal free days (and performance day mornings for that matter) are some of the worst and loneliest times to be out on the road. Its really hard to miss your family and watch “family day” go by. If you don’t at least have a dog with you a girl can look pretty sad, or in my case strangely suspicious. And no hotel room is so nice you want to spend all day in it.

Enter the glorious independent coffee shops of the world! They are, often as not, run by fearless entrepreneurs much like ourselves and staffed by, run by, frequented by artist types too. They have good atmosphere, good coffee, comfortable chairs, wifi and a meal we can eat on our own and not look like someone stood us up in a Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks movie.

THE MORNING TIMES at number 10 Hargett St in downtown Raleigh North Carolina Is just such an establishment. Timothy the manager is super cool, they have an art gallery and couches upstairs, good wifi and indoor outdoor tables. The red velvet cake is “off the chain” they serve a breakfast bagel all day long and their sandwiches are packed to go so you can grab one and run even on a rehearsal break. I am also proud to report that I got a smiley face drawn in my delicious latte this morning.

They make you feel welcome for as long as you want to hang out, they are interested in what you do and helpful if you have questions about the area. Or they let you sit and conduct music and mouth words like an idiot with absolute impunity. Thank you MORNING TIMES for making Saturdays on the road, and every day I have been in Raleigh, a little friendlier and a lot more yummy.

Posted in General, Good Eats, Places.

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A truffle a day…

As we all know, the most important scientific break-through of the last century was not the discovery of penicillin nor the development of the electrocardiograph, but rather, the medical community’s affirmation that chocolate is good for you.

Specifically, eating 2 ounces (50 grams) a day of plain chocolate with a minimum content of 70% chocolate solids can be beneficial to health, providing protection against heart disease and high blood pressure, as well as essential trace elements and nutrients such as iron, calcium and potassium, and vitamins A, B1, C, D, and E.

Thank you, o pioneering choco-doctors, for your tireless hours of chocolate-filled research!

A walk on Boston’s historic Charles Street two weeks ago led me to Beacon Hill Chocolates – a little jewelbox of a shop selling “artisan chocolates from New England and around the world.”

Located just a few blocks from Boston Commons, Beacon Hill Chocolates features such exotic treats as the Blood Orange Fleur de Lis truffle (a center of dark chocolate infused with blood orange in a hand-painted Fleur de Lis dark chocolate shell) and the perfectly sweet/tart chocolate-covered cranberries. For Boston Lyric Opera’s recent Idomeneo production, opening night gifts were in order, and the Beacon Hill chocolate-covered gummy bears I chose for my cast-mates made me a popular soprano indeed!

Check out Beacon Hill Chocolates when you are next in Boston. You (and your doctor!) will be glad you did.

Posted in General, Good Eats, Places.

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Eating Well in Madrid

Looking for the best food at the best prices with the best atmosphere is certainly something we all try to do on the road. In Madrid, it is all about Tapas, and the number of Tapas Bars is dizzying. The Plaza Mayor is filled with some good food, but pretty pricey, and of course Plaza Santa Ana is a must in the early evening. So I have 2 recommendations in the Centro for good food, great atmosphere, and wonderful prices!

Rain or shine, it’s El Mercado de San Miguel. Just off of the Plaza Mayor, the Mercado is fully covered by a Beaux-Arts glass and steel structure, and is filled with high end food, wine, desserts, cheeses, seafood, Tapas, caviar and the ever popular Vermut Grifo. Go there for lunch or dinner or Tapas and you will be surrounded by locals and tourists and you will eat really well and really economically!

When you do want a full sit-down meal and still want to feel the Madrilenos atmosphere, then head to Taberna Maceira. Hidden at the end of the tiny Calle de las Huertas (number 66), you would probably walk past it if you did not know it was there. The locals begin arriving after 9PM or so, and there are no reservations. People wait outside for a long time, but each time I went I waited no more than 10 minutes. Once inside, you can order off the menu (handwritten on painters’ palettes) or ask for a menu in English, too. Have a pitcher of Sangria and some of those wonderful roasted peppers to get yourself started. At the end of the evening they will ask you if you want to partake in a ritual of drinking, which is a large bowl on a table filled with a mix of alcohols…that are lit on fire and served in a cup at your table. The show around the lighting of the bowl is pretty amazing, and the brew is damn good! Come prepared though: Maceira is CASH ONLY!

Posted in Good Eats, Places.

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Relax, Replenish, Restore

As a singer, it’s interesting how many times you hear, “Wow, you were in (Berlin, New York, Budapest…), that must have been so amazing!” Yet, all the while, I’m thinking, “eh, I just want my own bed.” Traveling and singing can wear you out! And although the occupational “hazard” of traveling to beautiful cities across the world may seem luxurious, the truth of the matter is, unfortunately when I am in a city, I often feel too busy to see the sites. So unless I try to consciously be a bit of a tourist, it is pretty easy just to slip in, rehearse, sing, and slip out (but I usually regret this later).

Lately, I am trying to make sure I give myself time to relax and just enjoy being in a new place to restore the energy that traveling can deplete. When I was in Vienna last week I decided to give myself a day to enjoy the city. I ended up at Shönbrunn Palace with a friend and we spent the afternoon chatting and taking in nature at the beautiful gardens. It recharged my batteries, filled me with some inspiration from the natural surroundings, and helped me to slow down and keep things in perspective, and to remember to breath and keep my feet on the ground. In Europe there are so many of these old wonderful locations so I often feel like I am connecting with history on some deep level; almost as if I remember being in that place long ago. I was happy to have spent the afternoon at this imperial summer residence of many of the Hapsburg monarchs and I am continuing the resolve to truly see the cities where I am singing in the future! Next time you are in Vienna, I highly recommend an afternoon at the gardens of Schönbrunn, your soul will thank you.

Posted in Great Outdoors, Places, Travel Tips.

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Spring has Sprung – even in Minnesota!

Firstly, being British I have to make you aware that today is St. George’s Day and he is the Patron Saint of England. Unfortunately I can’t get hold of an English flag to stick out of my apartment window and if I could then I’m sure the Minnesotans here would wonder what I was doing? I have sung here before in 1999 when I sang the title role in Tosca. I can’t believe how much this area has changed since then. We are staying in the Warehouse District where very chi-chi apartments and lofts have replaced all the old railway yards and sidings. I am staying in a loft apartment right next door to the Minnesota Opera offices so one can literally fall out of bed in time for one’s rehearsal call!!!! We have been blessed by the most incredible Spring weather which has let me take full advantage of the most comprehensive walk/bicycle trails system I’ve come across in a sizable city like Minneapolis. One is stuck for choice: you can walk down pathways that follow the course of the mighty Mississippi until your legs drop off and also enjoy a cool breeze blowing off the series of Chain o’ Lakes which are a short drive from the downtown area.

As luck would have it we are a mere 15 mins. walk from the new Target Field: home of the Minnesota Twins. This is their inaugural season in their state of the art stadium and I managed to get 2 tix for the opening week of home games. My husband came up from Chicago (he is a Cubs fan) and we enjoyed a great day at the Ballpark. I must say the new Field is a delight but what impressed me the most was how close the field and thus the action is and every seat faces towards the game so they have done an excellent job. It was a glorious cloudless day so we experienced a piece of true Americana.

We also drove the wonderful Grand Scenic Byway and finished off our day at the famous sculpture Garden where my husband wanted to see the famous Claes Oldenburg piece. Living in Chicago which is a great Architectural and Sculptural city, we are admirers of Oldenburgs Baseball Bat sculpture which is not far from the Lyric Opera of Chicago and now have seen another of his famous works in situ.

I will be sorry to go home after this trip as even native Minnesotans are astonished at how sublime the weather has been. I love to walk and have probably racked up about 30 miles while I’ve been here. I think the weather Gods were trying to make a point against the naysayers of the new Target Field who think that building an open fielded Baseball Park was an exercise in folly!!! C’est la vie.

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